Tuesday, June 06, 2006
Last entry..... :-(
23rd April - Chipata / bush camp
Woke up early up in the tree platform. Hippos laughing in the distance. Snuggled under my sleeping bag I lay looking up into tree. Suddenly I was faced with a cheeky vervet monkey staring back at me. There were a few leaping from branch to branch above my head. I soaked up the sounds of early morning singing birds and chatting insects. I love sleeping in the trees. We left for Chipata to pick up some shopping and then drove for the rest of the day. We bush camped and it was a lovely clear evening. I decided to sleep out under the stars. The nights are very cool over this side so it is nice to be able to snuggle down into your sleeping bag and watch the star show above.
24th April - Lusaka / bush camp
We reached Lusaka and parked up in a huge shopping centre. I couldnt face the hussle and bussle so scooted in and out the supermarket in minutes. We drove and then bush camped again this eve. Another beautiful clear night and I decided to sleep out again. This time not so pleasant as I got attacked by biting ants in the middle of the night and had to make a quick escape into someone elses tent!
25th - 26th April - Cross into Zimbabwe / Harare
We headed to The Rocks campsite. Settled outrselves in and then went to meet the locals in the bar. They made us very welcome but we struggled to keep up with these seasoned drinkers. There were no other campers at the site as not many trips come through Zim anymore. We made the most of it. On 26th we indulged and went to the cinema to watch Brothers Grimm and explored Harare abit. That evening we had a mega BBQ and an early night.
27th April - drive / bush camp Pretty long drive day.
We bush camped near a quarry trying to find a piece of flat to pitch a tent! Matt gave us a few songs in the eve as the stars came out.
28th - 29th April - Bulawayo
First stop this morning were the Greater Zimbabwe Ruins. It was quite dull grey day. We walked around the ruins for a couple of hours trying to imagine old Great Zimbabwe of hundreds of years ago. It was built between 1100 and 1400 AD by the Shona people. It was a very rich and powerful centre in Africa. Possibly a gold mine, possibly the home of the queen of Sheba. It spreads over 1800 acres. We then drove until the late afternoon when we got to Bulawayo. We arrived at another deserted campsite. It was a lovely place though with a tree lined road going down the middle. We made a camp fire and were again treated to some music from Matt and Bren while warming our toes over the fire.
On 29th a few of us went to Rhodes Matopus National Park to walk with rhinos. We didnt see rhinos but we saw a few other animals and took in this very rocky rugged park. Some of the boulders looked precariously balanced high up above us. The rock is very mustard yellow and in the afternoon we got to climb into some of the caves to see bushmen cave paintings. Unbelievable that these are still very detailed and colourful after all these years. They depict the surrounding land and animals for other bushmen that stay in the caves. They are red in colour.
30th April - 3rd May - Victoria Falls on the Zimbabwe side
Early start to Vic Falls. We arrived in the late afternoon and just sat around Shoe Strings camp taking it all in. Blocks of bright blue and yellow covered the walls. There is a big grassy area with relaxing areas under umbrellas. The bar was well stocked with vodka and mazoe. It was a real backpackers place with a great buzz. In the distance you can hear the rumble of the waterfall.....
1st May
Today was spent wondering around Vic Falls town. It reminded me of a small outback Australian Town. All the buildings are on one level with very neutral colours. It didnt feel touristy at all. Very relaxed and laid back town. We walked around the craft markets. Massive wooden giraffes and elephants calling to me!! No more crafts for Jen though! :-). In the afternoon I treated myself and went to a posh hotel for some treatments. I settled down for a facial and a massage in the place of patchouli smelling luxury. Six months of dirt and grim felt like it was being drawn and pounded out of me. I came out all shiny and new! That evening we all went for dinner in the same hotel.
2nd May - Adrenaline day!
I signed up for adrenaline day with Matt and Ian. As our taxi pulled in to take us to the Zambian side of the falls my stomach was in knots. On the agenda was abseiling, rapjumping, flying fox and the ultimate scary one - the gorge swing!!
We crossed the border quickly and easily and got to the gorge on the Zambezi where these crazy sports are set up! First was abseiling. The worst bit being leaning back and stepping off the edge. The guy running the abseiling was being very jokey. Sometimes abit too much...."Do you want to do it without the rope?"....So I was on my way down a jagged rock face. A couple of jumps out I was getting quite comfortable. Then I couldnt get back to the rock face so ended up going down most of the way away from the face, hanging from the rope....not too scary really..... We trekked 25 mins out of the gorge to take on the flying fox!
Trussed up round the waist and up the bum we had to run off the edge of the gorge. Simple....but so unnatural! I ran, I jumped and I screamed. I flew across to gorge arms outstretched trying to look like an elegant bird...with rope up its bum! They reeled me back in and I was shaking with a mixture of fright and adrenaline. I still went again though. This time being able to take in the stunning view up the gorge.
Next was rap-jumping. Forward abseiling. I was first!..that cheeky instructor! Back in harness, hard hat and gloves like those you do the gardening in I was set for going down the cliff face, face first.... Again, its just the leaning forward and trusting the equipment. After one step you get going and there is no going back. Again I came away from the cliff face and just ended up going straight down the rope - mission impossible style.
We walked back out the gorge again and headed for the Gorge Swing!! I was last on this one. Slowly loosing my nerve as everyone went before me, screaming profanities as they sped down the side of the gorge. All trussed up in 2 harnesses at the edge it was finally my turn. The instructor was encouraging but mostly its just a blur. I had to be quick otherwise I would have bottled it. I just stepped off without thinking. I plummeted 55 metres freefall before swinging out over the gorge. Freefalling was a scary feeling and I screamed my lungs out....the rock face rushes past you and you feel like you are heading for your death in the trees at the bottom. 90Kph speed... You swing for a minute or so and then are lowered down to the bottom. I was out of breath and as I set my feet on the ground my legs turned to jelly. I was speechless....never again!
The boys did 2 more gorge swings together. Two people make it super fast and they were going down the gorge virtually upside down. Knowing what was coming made it no easier. They were petrified!....
I couldnt do anymore. I was adrenalined out. I did what I had come to do and was buzzing for the rest of the day. Tonight we went to Bomas restaurant and feasted on seven courses of salads and freshly grilled game meats. Pudding was to die for! They had African drummers, singers and dancers who were amazing and created a great atmosphere. We left there absolutely and disgustingly stuffed!
3rd May
This morning I went on an early morning horse game ride with Matt and Bren. We were taken to the stable and matched up with horses. We were greeted by the very slim grey haired woman with green parakee on her shoulder. She was the owner - very accentric looking. We headed out into the bush and immediately came across buffalo. We were admiring them when they suddenly charged us. The horses flared and scooted in the other direction. Good job they were watching what was going on! It was only a fake charge but still.... We got close to lots of impala as they arent scared of the horses. We saw elephants and kudu. Neither of which felt threatened by our presence. It was an amazing way to see wildlife....
We headed back for brekkie and I chilled out for abit and then headed to go and see the waterfall.... Its about a 2 Km walk through town and out the other side. Once you are in the area there is a path to follow which eventually leads you to right opposite the waterfall. Vic Falls is at near full water at the moment so it was thunderous... As I got closer the rain started to come...upwards. It was spray coming up from the bottom. The falls are awesome and a fantastic natural wonder. I was mezmerised by the power of the water gushing over and the massive churning and thrashing as it hit the water below.
The rainbows over the falls were enchanting. Starting somewhere in the depths and rising up to the path. Thick bright strips of colour carefully painted across the grey white pumping water. As I walked the path I was walking through faint mini rainbows scattered infront of me. It felt strange. Normally rainbows are miles away but right there I could reach out and try to touch them. Magical. I walked the path to the end and back and by the time I left I was soaked. Seeing Vic Falls is a big highlight. It was an amazing sight I won't forget.
4th May - Botswana / Chobe
A slow morning as today we were heading for the Botswana border. I loved the atmosphere of Vic Falls and would love to spend longer there. It wasnt long before we crossed into Botswana and hit the long straight roads of the country. We got to Chobe just in time to stock up on some beers and catch the sunset cruise along the Chobe River. We saw some buffalo and elephant drinking down at the edge. It was a beautiful clear late afternoon that slowly turned into a deep red and orange sunset. The river was very wide with trees growing in it along the edge and reed beds in the middle. Its a very pretty river and watched a gorgeous pinky orange sunset over it. We headed back to camp to be welcomed by Bren's famous lasagne that he has been promising us all trip. It did not disappoint!
5th - 6th May - Maun
Today was a day of driving along a very long and boring road to Maun. I loved it though as Botswana means alot to me. When I was 16 I was lucky enough to spend a month at a safari camp run by my friends uncle. (www.unchartedafrica.com). It was an amazing experience especially at that age and since then I have wanted to travel and also come back to Africa. We did not go to the Magadigadi Salt Pans but we went past the turning and I could remember back to the night we got there 11 years ago. I hated it initially but ended up loving it and just loving being out in the open and close to nature. We got to Maun late in th day and got on with a fire for dinner. The heavens opened so things werent looking too good. We managed to get something russled up and then headed for drinks for Bren's birthday.
6th May
A slow morning checking out Maun. Quite small but quite developed with the usual supermarket chains and restaurants. Unfortunately everything shut at lunchtime on a Saturday so we werent in town for long. In the late afternoon a few of us went on a scenic flight over the Okavango Delta.
My small plane experience got smaller. This time we used a 6 seater to fly 500 feet above the Delta. We saw some animals but more interesting was the vast marshy type land and colours spreading out below us. The deep greens and yellows all around with water glistening as it twisted through the land. One hour went super quick.
7th driving to Namibia
This morning we said goodbye to American Paul. He decided to take up an offer of going sailing from Dar to Seychelles, India and Thailand. He left to head back to Dar and start another exciting adventure..... Another long drive day to Namibia. The land flat and dry. We crossed the border and found a bush camp for the night. I watched the first of many amazing Namibian sunsets.
8th May - 9th May - Etosha
We arrived at Etosha National Park in the afternoon and went to the watering hole to see if there were any animals. None just yet so we went back and started on dinner. Later in the evening we went back to watch the sun go down over the plain and a rhino came to the watering hole. Everyone was silent and you could just hear the crickets in the night chirping to each other.
We were able to drive through Etosha in the truck with no need to rent a four wheel drive. There was not an abundance of wildlife but Etosha itself is vast and very striking. The grasses were low and a pale yellowy colour. Some areas were expanse of salt pan where you could feel like you are on the surface of the moon. Like alot of pan areas in Namibia. Desolate and stark. The skies were blue and the sun bright white. The magnificent size of the land that is spread out before you is awe-inspiring.
I slept out under the millions of stars in the Namibian skies both nights. The sounds of hyenas and jackels in the distance. Snuggled down out of the chilly breeze it was a wonderful way to fall asleep.
10th May - Otjitongwe Cheetah park
We drove most of the day and arrived at the cheetah park around 4ish. We went straight out to watch the cheetahs being fed. They are rescued from farm land around Namibia as farmers will shoot them as they kill their cattle. There is nowhere for these cheetahs to go though as the government say Etosha has enough and will not allow animals to be transferred to other countries. So these cheetahs will not get reintroduced into the wild. We had a nice BBQ and huddled round the fire. Namibia gets very cold at night....
11th May - Cape Cross / desert
This morning we went to the house of the owners of the cheetah park to meet the tame cheetahs. We were able to stroke them and play with them. They were very placid with us but we were told they never loose their killer instinct and they are the only cat that kills for fun. It was amazing to be able to touch one after seeing one in the wild in Masai Mara. Their fur was quite coarse and their eyes were a striking amber colour. They purred like domestic cats too.
We drove the rest of the day towards the coast to Cape Cross to view the seal colony. It was a long few hours. The land was stark and bare with not a break in the landscape for as far as the eye could see. The smell was the first thing that wafted through the truck as we got closer to the seals! We walked down to the beach and were faced with hundreds of grunting huffing seals pulling themselves along the beach. It was an amazing sight to see so many seals in one place. You could see them swimming in the sea and sometimes you would catch sight of one jumping right out of the water.
After looking at the seals we were just going to bush camp but we came across a pub in the middle of the desert on the skeleton coast. It was bizarre. Nothing else around for miles. There were caps hanging above the bar. We were hoping that they didnt belong to customers that never made it out of there!!!... We ended up camping out the back and having a few beers. Some of the guys got lured into drinking games.
I slept out in the desert. I walked away from the truck about 5 mins and set my bed down. The moon was full and bright and the stars were twinkling. During the night I kept waking up to find the moon slowly moving across the sky. At around 5:30am it hit the horizon and started to disappear. It had turned an orangey colour and as it slowly left the view I could turn over and see the sun starting to come up on my other side. The sky was turning the colour of watery orange juice and gradually you could feel the heat coming through. There is something special about sleeping out in the desert. Nothing in your view for miles and just barren land surrounding you with stars down to the horizon. Its like being in an alien world.
12th - 14th May - Swakopmund
Billy, the pub owner, gave Bram and I a quick whizz through the desert in his landrover. He showed us some interesting rocks and bushmen camps. He pointed out that the growth we were seeing was highly unusual. They had had more than their annual rainfall in the space of one evening back in April so now there were small grasses and flowers growing in the desert and mosses on the rocks. Unseen in his lifetime he told us....
We arrived in Swakop early on 12th and I spent the day walking around the town. Its a very quiet town with big wide roads and very German looking buildings. For all the buildings there does not seem to be many people! In the evening we all went to a restaurant famous for its ribs! You have never seen a bigger portion of ribs! Unbelievable. I had the baby portion but the guys had the 2kg portion. None of us were able to finish our meals and we are off pork products for a long time!
13th May
Today we just checked out Swakop abit more. Going for coffee and lunch. I went horse riding with Matt in the afternoon. Third time of the trip!! I am getting into this horse riding thing. We had a great guide who took us out into the desert as the sun was getting low. The landscape was very stark but it was great to be on a horse with so much space around you. We walked, trotted and galloped. On our last gallop things didnt go to plan. Mine and Matt's horse were getting abit narky with each other and just as we were about to gallop my horse got its own ideas and belted across the desert. I was hanging on for dear life. To the saddle, the rains, the mane.....he went for a few mins before I could gain control and pull on the rains and he screeched to a stop at the top of a hill. My goodness.....abit of a hairy experience but I managed to stay on so I was very happy.....Matt came belting after me to make sure I was OK. I think I was silent for a few minutes before laughing and we carried on back to the stables, keeping the two horses separate. No more galloping!....
14th May
Again just chilling out and checking out the Swakop people! Didnt see Brangelina!!
15th - 16th May - Sesriem / Sossusvlei/Deadvlei
We drove towards the red dunes and that evening climbed a dune to watch the sun go down. I didnt get that far up as walking up sand felt like I was getting nowhere. I settled myslef down to watch the sunset. The sunsets in Africa are amazing and they were very special in Namibia. Always bright red, pinks and oranges. Spread right across the sky with the blazing sun so big on the horizon.
On the 16th we were up at 5ish to go and watch the sunrise at one of the dunes. It was beautiful. Some walked up the dune while others made brekkie. The sun was coming up as the moon was still out. Gradually the dunes grew redder and redder in the sunshine. It was a glorious sunrise and we all had brekkie next to the dunes as the morning sun got stronger. Later that day we went to see Sossusvlei, Deadvlei and Crazy Dune.
Deadvlei is a valley of dead trees out in the dunes. Thousands of years ago there was a river running but with the movement of the sand it cut off the river and the water dried up. The trees are left and do not rot as it is so hot. They are sort of fossilised. Its a very eery place. Next was Sossusvlei. A small lake in the dunes. Water is the last thing you expect to find. The water was very clear and reflected the red of the dunes so it would look like the water was not there at all. We just looked at crazy dune from a distance. Apparently a 2.5hr walk to the top and you really would need to be crazy to try it in this heat!...
Being surrounded by these huge red dunes was phenomenal. I felt like I was in a Turkish Delight ad.
17th - 18th May - Fish River Canyon / SA border / Orange River
We drove to Fish River Canyon and stayed there for an hour or so. We were viewing it from the rim of the canyon. It is huge and drops down a long way. There was a small amount of water flowing through but the jagged rocks and just the enormity was spectacular.
Later that day we crossed the border into South Africa and got our last stamp. The easiest border ever. Within 2km we were at Orange River and stayed there for 2 nights. The first night we arrived late and I slept out under a huge sprawling tree listening to river and looking at the stars.
The next day we went into town. One shop. They sold pretty much everything but that is all the town consisted of! In the afternoon there was a burning of clothes ceremony! They wanted to burn my favourite jumper but I wouldn’t let them, instead I gave up one of my vests. All our clothes had taken a battering and we had seen each other in the same clothes for the last 7 months. There were specific clothes that NEEDED to be burnt! We had a pig on a spit that night and we all had a few drinks for our last night on the road.
19th May - Arrive Cape Town
We drove all day in the bleak, grey heavy rain. Stopping for pies at a garage, we just drove and drove. We were all very subdued and just wanted to turn around and start the whole journey again! We arrived in Cape Town around 7ish and it just didn’t seem real that we were all done and Africa was finish! The Sunflower Stop was an amazing hostel to end up at though. Very clean with comfy beds and a friendly homely atmosphere.
20th - 21st May - checking out Cape Town
I went and checked out the shops and the V&A waterfront. We all went out to the Africa Café and then onto Opium on Saturday night. We didn’t last long at the club!
22nd May - Robben Island
Today we got the boat across to Robben Island. Still cloudy and rainy. The water was very choppy. You are shown round the prison by ex-inmates which is interesting and makes the experiences much more real. We saw Nelson Mandela cell and other cells all containing information of their inmates and why they were imprisoned. We were also taken down to the quarry where many of them were made to work hard for long hours chipping away at white rock which damaged their eyes. It was amazing that most of the inmates feel no bitterness for their imprisonment and in fact used their time in the prison to educate themselves and others. Most leaving with degrees. It was a fascinating couple of hours. As we made our way back the sun started to come out….
23rd May - climbed Table Mountain
My goodness this was tough…. We set off in the morning. We got a cab to the base of the mountain and then started upwards! The steps are very big and my legs were seizing up. It took us an hour and 45 to get to the top. The views were spectacular. It was very cold up the top of the mountain and very windy that day so the cable car was not running. This in turn meant the café wasn’t open. We were desperate for a hot drink but instead had a few mins getting our breath and headed back down. Looking down onto Cape Town was stunning. The sun was shining on the sea but up in the mountain we were level with big grey clouds. It was not as tiring going down but you had to keep on your toes as the steps were steep and there were a few loose rocks. The sun started to blaze and we came across a waterfall flowing out over the path along the side of the mountain. It was very pretty. We got to the bottom and cheered. We got a cab back into Cape Town and went to Granny Feels Good (a brilliant café) for coffee and bagel. I am so glad I walked up and down the mountain. It was very invigorating and worth the pain. I knew my legs would aches for days!
24th May - checking out more of Cape Town
Today I had a list of stuff I wanted to go and look at. I walked into the centre of Cape Town which took about 45 mins from the hostel. First off I went to the Gold Musuem which detailed the last 4000 history of Africas gold. It was amazing how rich and plentiful Africa was in pre-colonial times and how places like the Ghana Kingdom and Zimbabwe were very powerful. Next I went to Monkey Biz. A shop selling little beaded items made by women with HIV. Monkey Biz was setup to give HIV affected women an opportunity to be creative and earn money. I then walked up and down Long St which is a buzzing place full of unusual shops. There is a massive bead shop selling all shapes and sizes of beads. Also a second hand clothes shop. This was a gorgeous place. They had all 40’s and 50’s style prom dresses and just some great old clothes and hats. Checking all this out took most of the day and needless to say I got abit lost so got a cab back to the hostel!
25th May - Simons Town, Boulders Beach, Cape of Good Hope, Cape Point
This was an organised trip with a very eager and over the top guide! First off we drove through a very quaint Simons Town and then we stopped off at Boulders Beach to look at the penguins. They were very cute. The weather was gorgeous today and made a nice change! Onwards to Cape of Good Hope. We had a little cycle and a walk and finally got to the Point in the late afternoon. It was a really nice day and the clear blue skies and the gorgeous blue sea made for some incredible views.
26th - 28th May - checking out more of Cape Town
We went to the cinema to see Tsotsi - an amazing film! Also went to the National Gallery and just generally went out for walks to see more of Cape Town.
29th May - leave my little family and fly to Port Elizabeth. Visiting friends in St Francis Bay
Tears galore! I left to get my flight at around lunchtime. It was only myself, Bram and Nat and Bren left. Everyone else had left gradually throughout the week so it was a fairly emotional time. I flew to Port Elizabeth to visit my friends parents and generally chill out and get back into reality mode.
I had a lovely time and the weather was gorgeous. We went to the Cape St Francis and Jeffreys Bay. Both beautiful white sandy beaches with crystal blue seas. The sea is extremely cold though as its on the Atlantic….I only dipped my toe!
3rd June - PE to Joburg / Joburg to London
So that was that. Before I know it I am on my way back to PE airport to get a flight to Joburg. This got in at 3pm and then I had to wait until 9pm for my flight to London. It wasn’t that bad as the shops kept my amused and then it was time to leave Africa! I watched my last sunset from the terminal window and bid this beautiful continent farewell…..
4th June - HOME!
Need I say more……
A little bit more…..
I went on this trip to get away from routine, quiet all the noise, clear my head and have time to stop and look. I wanted to meet new people, see different cultures, different landscapes and just try to expand my world. I got so much more.
I have met some amazing people both on and off the truck. I have experienced a barrage of emotions from both personal and external struggles. The awesome landscapes. The poverty and desperation seen on the faces of the people through much of Africa. I tried to absorb everything I could and listen and learn along the way.
I loved travelling in a truck through Africa at a grassroots level. You could not ask for a better bunch people to travel with. Obviously I had a deeper bond with some more than others but all of us got along - most of the time :-). Nat and Bren committed themselves to the trip even though our first truck was not up to the job. They are both very patient, adaptable and tolerant with big hearts. They were a wealth of knowledge and great guides through Africa.
I loved being swallowed up by the huge open spaces that make you feel like a speck in space. Just a dot on a mountain, in a river, on a sand dune, in the desert. I loved the simplicity this journey has brought with it for me. The time I have spent close to nature and out in the elements is very precious. Looking to see what is around you at every opportunity. The land, the people, the animals…..everything was new and different every single day.
I did not write much about the people I have seen and met throughout Africa but this does not mean I have not spoken, watched and listened to the people of Africa. The majority of countries are poor, with most facing corruption with money going to the wrong people. You know that everyone is fighting for everything they eat, drink and earn and obviously this brings crime and hatred. The white person is viewed as rich and nearly every country would bring with it ‘Give me money’ from at least one person. Just like anywhere else in the world you would get lazy people who would want it all on a plate and you would get people that worked so hard it was unbelievable. The people of Africa are physically strong people and when you see them working in the fields or doing manual labour you see just how strong and determined they are. As you get further south there is abit more money but there is still a big divide between the black and white way of life and living conditions.
You had to barter for everything in west Africa (and alot in the east too). First price....best price....last price! It was sometimes very tiring and other times would just became a joke as the local market traders would start at a price 10 times higher than that for a local. You would laugh and joke about the white man price but definitely barter that down! Another overwhelming commonality was being asked for your phone number and email. I gave my email out over 20 times and have not received one yet. It seems it is just to have, like an autopilot question to ask of a foreigner....
All African women carry things on their heads. It was very bizarre to see a woman in a built up modern(ish) city like Nairobi to be carrying a bag on her head. Women also still carry their babies using a piece of cloth tied around their back and fastened over their breasts. Nothing has changed for hundreds of years.
The local people will walk for miles for work, food, water. Some of the long stretches of road we would see people walking. You could not see where they started or where they would end.
I have experienced the most wonderful hospitality from different people in different countries. Some people just want you to see their beautiful country and just want to talk about how they feel about what is happening in their country. When you hear all the different stories through Africa, the continent just seems like it has been left behind and where do you start with solving the problems.
A city like Lagos has disgusting smelly open sewers with people living next to them under bridges when it has the potential to be the richest country in Africa. The effect of the missionaries bringing with them strong religious beliefs are obvious on the road to Accra in Ghana - either 'The Lord is Great Electricals' or for those who went in a different direction - 'Allah forever beauty salon'. Extremely humourous when you get to the 100th store saying exactly the same. We saw a huge extravagant looking church being built in Uganda when alot of people have no money to eat. This then leads to two trains of thought as the church will hopefully bring together the community and give people a place of quiet and refuge but also the Ugandans are poor and could use that money to survive. I guess the same thing could be said in many of the other African countries.
The majority of Africans I met were happy. Even though they struggle on a day to day basis, family is very important to them. We always came across amazingly inquisitive and excitable kids that just wanted to talk and touch. You can see the toil in lots of faces. I wanted to reach out to everyone but unfortunately I cant.
I realise how lucky I am to have choices, access to work, access to basic things like food and water. To be free to express myself and have an opinion. It brings home the film Tsotsi line of ‘You don’t choose your beginnings’. Some are tough and some have no regard for human life. Others are desperate for knowledge and education to make their lives better, without war and killing.
I will go back to Africa and I would like to help somehow, even though my contribution would be small in comparison to the bigger picture.
In 7 months I have only seen a fraction of the continent (and I know mostly highlights) and what I am writing is all very basic. I am being very general about the whole continent but really you cannot lump together all the people in all the countries. I am just writing about my observations without much background or detailed knowledge about Africa.
I love Africa and feel passion for it. Whether its because it is where human life supposedly began or maybe its just the feeling of being absorbed into the vast wild spaces. There is no room for ego in Africa, you are inconsequential and just get lost in the crowd…..
A couple of poems I wrote - inspired by Africa.....
Do you remember?
Do you remember how I first struggled with your unpredictability?
How you smothered me with your burning hands.
Do you remember how you blew the hair off my face with your dry coarse breath?
Do remember the night you showed me the life in the sky?
Do you remember how you carried me across the vast expanse of desert?
How our romantic moments gave me hope,
but at the same time made me sad?
Do you remember how you made me question everything?
How you showed me colours and shapes as if for the first time.
Do you remember how much you deeply affected me?
How intensely I fell for you?
How you broke my heart?
Africa?
Do you remember?
Brothers and sisters
I'll never meet all my sisters and brothers,
Only the ones crossing my path.
Sometimes we will speak,
Sometimes we'll just pass.
The drum
The beat.
Its instinctive,
Primitive.
Another voice,
Another sense.
Hands slapping.
Sliding.
Closed.
Open.
Quicker, quicker...
Louder, louder...
Surrendering to the sound,
The movement,
The emotion,
Uninhibited.
Eyes shut.
Legs clasped tight.
The vibration passing through,
Your thighs,
Your calfs,
Your whole body.
Africa
I'll never forget the time you punched me hard in the stomach,
Making me feel weak and alone.
How you separated me from my friends,
Laughing at me like a tormentor.
You saved me from some people,
And pushed me into the arms of others.
Viciously jabbing me in the back,
To look at the reality around me.
You made me sad,
When you forced me to look into the eyes of hungry bellies.
I love to hate you Africa.
As I remember you kindly sat me down and tried to make me understand.
You made me feel insecure and assertive,
All at once.
You put on an amazing star show for me.
You made me embrace my emotions,
And laugh out loud.
I found a new strength through you,
As you provided the simplicity I craved.
The precious times we spent together at sunset.
You stirred me up.
You tried to make me recognise myself.
Become more accepting.
I am trying to meet you half way,
As our time is coming to an end.
I am replaying our journey in my head.
You are special to me,
And I want to remember.
Every single moment.
Sorry I didnt catch your name....
What is your name?
So many faces.
Walking.
Running.
Pounding washing.
Shouting.
Sorry I didnt catch your name...
Laughing.
Bargaining.
Drinking.
Dancing.
Drumming.
Pushing.
Shoving.
Desperate.
I still didnt catch your name...
Smiling.
Swaggering.
Balancing.
Flirting.
Gesturing.
Tugging.
Staring.
So many people..
So many faces..
I am sorry, I never caught your name...
The end
Sometimes I want to step back into yesterday.
For yesterday to be today.
Change nothing,
Just replay it all,
Before I have to fall into tomorrow.
Thank you for reading X
23rd April - Chipata / bush camp
Woke up early up in the tree platform. Hippos laughing in the distance. Snuggled under my sleeping bag I lay looking up into tree. Suddenly I was faced with a cheeky vervet monkey staring back at me. There were a few leaping from branch to branch above my head. I soaked up the sounds of early morning singing birds and chatting insects. I love sleeping in the trees. We left for Chipata to pick up some shopping and then drove for the rest of the day. We bush camped and it was a lovely clear evening. I decided to sleep out under the stars. The nights are very cool over this side so it is nice to be able to snuggle down into your sleeping bag and watch the star show above.
24th April - Lusaka / bush camp
We reached Lusaka and parked up in a huge shopping centre. I couldnt face the hussle and bussle so scooted in and out the supermarket in minutes. We drove and then bush camped again this eve. Another beautiful clear night and I decided to sleep out again. This time not so pleasant as I got attacked by biting ants in the middle of the night and had to make a quick escape into someone elses tent!
25th - 26th April - Cross into Zimbabwe / Harare
We headed to The Rocks campsite. Settled outrselves in and then went to meet the locals in the bar. They made us very welcome but we struggled to keep up with these seasoned drinkers. There were no other campers at the site as not many trips come through Zim anymore. We made the most of it. On 26th we indulged and went to the cinema to watch Brothers Grimm and explored Harare abit. That evening we had a mega BBQ and an early night.
27th April - drive / bush camp Pretty long drive day.
We bush camped near a quarry trying to find a piece of flat to pitch a tent! Matt gave us a few songs in the eve as the stars came out.
28th - 29th April - Bulawayo
First stop this morning were the Greater Zimbabwe Ruins. It was quite dull grey day. We walked around the ruins for a couple of hours trying to imagine old Great Zimbabwe of hundreds of years ago. It was built between 1100 and 1400 AD by the Shona people. It was a very rich and powerful centre in Africa. Possibly a gold mine, possibly the home of the queen of Sheba. It spreads over 1800 acres. We then drove until the late afternoon when we got to Bulawayo. We arrived at another deserted campsite. It was a lovely place though with a tree lined road going down the middle. We made a camp fire and were again treated to some music from Matt and Bren while warming our toes over the fire.
On 29th a few of us went to Rhodes Matopus National Park to walk with rhinos. We didnt see rhinos but we saw a few other animals and took in this very rocky rugged park. Some of the boulders looked precariously balanced high up above us. The rock is very mustard yellow and in the afternoon we got to climb into some of the caves to see bushmen cave paintings. Unbelievable that these are still very detailed and colourful after all these years. They depict the surrounding land and animals for other bushmen that stay in the caves. They are red in colour.
30th April - 3rd May - Victoria Falls on the Zimbabwe side
Early start to Vic Falls. We arrived in the late afternoon and just sat around Shoe Strings camp taking it all in. Blocks of bright blue and yellow covered the walls. There is a big grassy area with relaxing areas under umbrellas. The bar was well stocked with vodka and mazoe. It was a real backpackers place with a great buzz. In the distance you can hear the rumble of the waterfall.....
1st May
Today was spent wondering around Vic Falls town. It reminded me of a small outback Australian Town. All the buildings are on one level with very neutral colours. It didnt feel touristy at all. Very relaxed and laid back town. We walked around the craft markets. Massive wooden giraffes and elephants calling to me!! No more crafts for Jen though! :-). In the afternoon I treated myself and went to a posh hotel for some treatments. I settled down for a facial and a massage in the place of patchouli smelling luxury. Six months of dirt and grim felt like it was being drawn and pounded out of me. I came out all shiny and new! That evening we all went for dinner in the same hotel.
2nd May - Adrenaline day!
I signed up for adrenaline day with Matt and Ian. As our taxi pulled in to take us to the Zambian side of the falls my stomach was in knots. On the agenda was abseiling, rapjumping, flying fox and the ultimate scary one - the gorge swing!!
We crossed the border quickly and easily and got to the gorge on the Zambezi where these crazy sports are set up! First was abseiling. The worst bit being leaning back and stepping off the edge. The guy running the abseiling was being very jokey. Sometimes abit too much...."Do you want to do it without the rope?"....So I was on my way down a jagged rock face. A couple of jumps out I was getting quite comfortable. Then I couldnt get back to the rock face so ended up going down most of the way away from the face, hanging from the rope....not too scary really..... We trekked 25 mins out of the gorge to take on the flying fox!
Trussed up round the waist and up the bum we had to run off the edge of the gorge. Simple....but so unnatural! I ran, I jumped and I screamed. I flew across to gorge arms outstretched trying to look like an elegant bird...with rope up its bum! They reeled me back in and I was shaking with a mixture of fright and adrenaline. I still went again though. This time being able to take in the stunning view up the gorge.
Next was rap-jumping. Forward abseiling. I was first!..that cheeky instructor! Back in harness, hard hat and gloves like those you do the gardening in I was set for going down the cliff face, face first.... Again, its just the leaning forward and trusting the equipment. After one step you get going and there is no going back. Again I came away from the cliff face and just ended up going straight down the rope - mission impossible style.
We walked back out the gorge again and headed for the Gorge Swing!! I was last on this one. Slowly loosing my nerve as everyone went before me, screaming profanities as they sped down the side of the gorge. All trussed up in 2 harnesses at the edge it was finally my turn. The instructor was encouraging but mostly its just a blur. I had to be quick otherwise I would have bottled it. I just stepped off without thinking. I plummeted 55 metres freefall before swinging out over the gorge. Freefalling was a scary feeling and I screamed my lungs out....the rock face rushes past you and you feel like you are heading for your death in the trees at the bottom. 90Kph speed... You swing for a minute or so and then are lowered down to the bottom. I was out of breath and as I set my feet on the ground my legs turned to jelly. I was speechless....never again!
The boys did 2 more gorge swings together. Two people make it super fast and they were going down the gorge virtually upside down. Knowing what was coming made it no easier. They were petrified!....
I couldnt do anymore. I was adrenalined out. I did what I had come to do and was buzzing for the rest of the day. Tonight we went to Bomas restaurant and feasted on seven courses of salads and freshly grilled game meats. Pudding was to die for! They had African drummers, singers and dancers who were amazing and created a great atmosphere. We left there absolutely and disgustingly stuffed!
3rd May
This morning I went on an early morning horse game ride with Matt and Bren. We were taken to the stable and matched up with horses. We were greeted by the very slim grey haired woman with green parakee on her shoulder. She was the owner - very accentric looking. We headed out into the bush and immediately came across buffalo. We were admiring them when they suddenly charged us. The horses flared and scooted in the other direction. Good job they were watching what was going on! It was only a fake charge but still.... We got close to lots of impala as they arent scared of the horses. We saw elephants and kudu. Neither of which felt threatened by our presence. It was an amazing way to see wildlife....
We headed back for brekkie and I chilled out for abit and then headed to go and see the waterfall.... Its about a 2 Km walk through town and out the other side. Once you are in the area there is a path to follow which eventually leads you to right opposite the waterfall. Vic Falls is at near full water at the moment so it was thunderous... As I got closer the rain started to come...upwards. It was spray coming up from the bottom. The falls are awesome and a fantastic natural wonder. I was mezmerised by the power of the water gushing over and the massive churning and thrashing as it hit the water below.
The rainbows over the falls were enchanting. Starting somewhere in the depths and rising up to the path. Thick bright strips of colour carefully painted across the grey white pumping water. As I walked the path I was walking through faint mini rainbows scattered infront of me. It felt strange. Normally rainbows are miles away but right there I could reach out and try to touch them. Magical. I walked the path to the end and back and by the time I left I was soaked. Seeing Vic Falls is a big highlight. It was an amazing sight I won't forget.
4th May - Botswana / Chobe
A slow morning as today we were heading for the Botswana border. I loved the atmosphere of Vic Falls and would love to spend longer there. It wasnt long before we crossed into Botswana and hit the long straight roads of the country. We got to Chobe just in time to stock up on some beers and catch the sunset cruise along the Chobe River. We saw some buffalo and elephant drinking down at the edge. It was a beautiful clear late afternoon that slowly turned into a deep red and orange sunset. The river was very wide with trees growing in it along the edge and reed beds in the middle. Its a very pretty river and watched a gorgeous pinky orange sunset over it. We headed back to camp to be welcomed by Bren's famous lasagne that he has been promising us all trip. It did not disappoint!
5th - 6th May - Maun
Today was a day of driving along a very long and boring road to Maun. I loved it though as Botswana means alot to me. When I was 16 I was lucky enough to spend a month at a safari camp run by my friends uncle. (www.unchartedafrica.com). It was an amazing experience especially at that age and since then I have wanted to travel and also come back to Africa. We did not go to the Magadigadi Salt Pans but we went past the turning and I could remember back to the night we got there 11 years ago. I hated it initially but ended up loving it and just loving being out in the open and close to nature. We got to Maun late in th day and got on with a fire for dinner. The heavens opened so things werent looking too good. We managed to get something russled up and then headed for drinks for Bren's birthday.
6th May
A slow morning checking out Maun. Quite small but quite developed with the usual supermarket chains and restaurants. Unfortunately everything shut at lunchtime on a Saturday so we werent in town for long. In the late afternoon a few of us went on a scenic flight over the Okavango Delta.
My small plane experience got smaller. This time we used a 6 seater to fly 500 feet above the Delta. We saw some animals but more interesting was the vast marshy type land and colours spreading out below us. The deep greens and yellows all around with water glistening as it twisted through the land. One hour went super quick.
7th driving to Namibia
This morning we said goodbye to American Paul. He decided to take up an offer of going sailing from Dar to Seychelles, India and Thailand. He left to head back to Dar and start another exciting adventure..... Another long drive day to Namibia. The land flat and dry. We crossed the border and found a bush camp for the night. I watched the first of many amazing Namibian sunsets.
8th May - 9th May - Etosha
We arrived at Etosha National Park in the afternoon and went to the watering hole to see if there were any animals. None just yet so we went back and started on dinner. Later in the evening we went back to watch the sun go down over the plain and a rhino came to the watering hole. Everyone was silent and you could just hear the crickets in the night chirping to each other.
We were able to drive through Etosha in the truck with no need to rent a four wheel drive. There was not an abundance of wildlife but Etosha itself is vast and very striking. The grasses were low and a pale yellowy colour. Some areas were expanse of salt pan where you could feel like you are on the surface of the moon. Like alot of pan areas in Namibia. Desolate and stark. The skies were blue and the sun bright white. The magnificent size of the land that is spread out before you is awe-inspiring.
I slept out under the millions of stars in the Namibian skies both nights. The sounds of hyenas and jackels in the distance. Snuggled down out of the chilly breeze it was a wonderful way to fall asleep.
10th May - Otjitongwe Cheetah park
We drove most of the day and arrived at the cheetah park around 4ish. We went straight out to watch the cheetahs being fed. They are rescued from farm land around Namibia as farmers will shoot them as they kill their cattle. There is nowhere for these cheetahs to go though as the government say Etosha has enough and will not allow animals to be transferred to other countries. So these cheetahs will not get reintroduced into the wild. We had a nice BBQ and huddled round the fire. Namibia gets very cold at night....
11th May - Cape Cross / desert
This morning we went to the house of the owners of the cheetah park to meet the tame cheetahs. We were able to stroke them and play with them. They were very placid with us but we were told they never loose their killer instinct and they are the only cat that kills for fun. It was amazing to be able to touch one after seeing one in the wild in Masai Mara. Their fur was quite coarse and their eyes were a striking amber colour. They purred like domestic cats too.
We drove the rest of the day towards the coast to Cape Cross to view the seal colony. It was a long few hours. The land was stark and bare with not a break in the landscape for as far as the eye could see. The smell was the first thing that wafted through the truck as we got closer to the seals! We walked down to the beach and were faced with hundreds of grunting huffing seals pulling themselves along the beach. It was an amazing sight to see so many seals in one place. You could see them swimming in the sea and sometimes you would catch sight of one jumping right out of the water.
After looking at the seals we were just going to bush camp but we came across a pub in the middle of the desert on the skeleton coast. It was bizarre. Nothing else around for miles. There were caps hanging above the bar. We were hoping that they didnt belong to customers that never made it out of there!!!... We ended up camping out the back and having a few beers. Some of the guys got lured into drinking games.
I slept out in the desert. I walked away from the truck about 5 mins and set my bed down. The moon was full and bright and the stars were twinkling. During the night I kept waking up to find the moon slowly moving across the sky. At around 5:30am it hit the horizon and started to disappear. It had turned an orangey colour and as it slowly left the view I could turn over and see the sun starting to come up on my other side. The sky was turning the colour of watery orange juice and gradually you could feel the heat coming through. There is something special about sleeping out in the desert. Nothing in your view for miles and just barren land surrounding you with stars down to the horizon. Its like being in an alien world.
12th - 14th May - Swakopmund
Billy, the pub owner, gave Bram and I a quick whizz through the desert in his landrover. He showed us some interesting rocks and bushmen camps. He pointed out that the growth we were seeing was highly unusual. They had had more than their annual rainfall in the space of one evening back in April so now there were small grasses and flowers growing in the desert and mosses on the rocks. Unseen in his lifetime he told us....
We arrived in Swakop early on 12th and I spent the day walking around the town. Its a very quiet town with big wide roads and very German looking buildings. For all the buildings there does not seem to be many people! In the evening we all went to a restaurant famous for its ribs! You have never seen a bigger portion of ribs! Unbelievable. I had the baby portion but the guys had the 2kg portion. None of us were able to finish our meals and we are off pork products for a long time!
13th May
Today we just checked out Swakop abit more. Going for coffee and lunch. I went horse riding with Matt in the afternoon. Third time of the trip!! I am getting into this horse riding thing. We had a great guide who took us out into the desert as the sun was getting low. The landscape was very stark but it was great to be on a horse with so much space around you. We walked, trotted and galloped. On our last gallop things didnt go to plan. Mine and Matt's horse were getting abit narky with each other and just as we were about to gallop my horse got its own ideas and belted across the desert. I was hanging on for dear life. To the saddle, the rains, the mane.....he went for a few mins before I could gain control and pull on the rains and he screeched to a stop at the top of a hill. My goodness.....abit of a hairy experience but I managed to stay on so I was very happy.....Matt came belting after me to make sure I was OK. I think I was silent for a few minutes before laughing and we carried on back to the stables, keeping the two horses separate. No more galloping!....
14th May
Again just chilling out and checking out the Swakop people! Didnt see Brangelina!!
15th - 16th May - Sesriem / Sossusvlei/Deadvlei
We drove towards the red dunes and that evening climbed a dune to watch the sun go down. I didnt get that far up as walking up sand felt like I was getting nowhere. I settled myslef down to watch the sunset. The sunsets in Africa are amazing and they were very special in Namibia. Always bright red, pinks and oranges. Spread right across the sky with the blazing sun so big on the horizon.
On the 16th we were up at 5ish to go and watch the sunrise at one of the dunes. It was beautiful. Some walked up the dune while others made brekkie. The sun was coming up as the moon was still out. Gradually the dunes grew redder and redder in the sunshine. It was a glorious sunrise and we all had brekkie next to the dunes as the morning sun got stronger. Later that day we went to see Sossusvlei, Deadvlei and Crazy Dune.
Deadvlei is a valley of dead trees out in the dunes. Thousands of years ago there was a river running but with the movement of the sand it cut off the river and the water dried up. The trees are left and do not rot as it is so hot. They are sort of fossilised. Its a very eery place. Next was Sossusvlei. A small lake in the dunes. Water is the last thing you expect to find. The water was very clear and reflected the red of the dunes so it would look like the water was not there at all. We just looked at crazy dune from a distance. Apparently a 2.5hr walk to the top and you really would need to be crazy to try it in this heat!...
Being surrounded by these huge red dunes was phenomenal. I felt like I was in a Turkish Delight ad.
17th - 18th May - Fish River Canyon / SA border / Orange River
We drove to Fish River Canyon and stayed there for an hour or so. We were viewing it from the rim of the canyon. It is huge and drops down a long way. There was a small amount of water flowing through but the jagged rocks and just the enormity was spectacular.
Later that day we crossed the border into South Africa and got our last stamp. The easiest border ever. Within 2km we were at Orange River and stayed there for 2 nights. The first night we arrived late and I slept out under a huge sprawling tree listening to river and looking at the stars.
The next day we went into town. One shop. They sold pretty much everything but that is all the town consisted of! In the afternoon there was a burning of clothes ceremony! They wanted to burn my favourite jumper but I wouldn’t let them, instead I gave up one of my vests. All our clothes had taken a battering and we had seen each other in the same clothes for the last 7 months. There were specific clothes that NEEDED to be burnt! We had a pig on a spit that night and we all had a few drinks for our last night on the road.
19th May - Arrive Cape Town
We drove all day in the bleak, grey heavy rain. Stopping for pies at a garage, we just drove and drove. We were all very subdued and just wanted to turn around and start the whole journey again! We arrived in Cape Town around 7ish and it just didn’t seem real that we were all done and Africa was finish! The Sunflower Stop was an amazing hostel to end up at though. Very clean with comfy beds and a friendly homely atmosphere.
20th - 21st May - checking out Cape Town
I went and checked out the shops and the V&A waterfront. We all went out to the Africa Café and then onto Opium on Saturday night. We didn’t last long at the club!
22nd May - Robben Island
Today we got the boat across to Robben Island. Still cloudy and rainy. The water was very choppy. You are shown round the prison by ex-inmates which is interesting and makes the experiences much more real. We saw Nelson Mandela cell and other cells all containing information of their inmates and why they were imprisoned. We were also taken down to the quarry where many of them were made to work hard for long hours chipping away at white rock which damaged their eyes. It was amazing that most of the inmates feel no bitterness for their imprisonment and in fact used their time in the prison to educate themselves and others. Most leaving with degrees. It was a fascinating couple of hours. As we made our way back the sun started to come out….
23rd May - climbed Table Mountain
My goodness this was tough…. We set off in the morning. We got a cab to the base of the mountain and then started upwards! The steps are very big and my legs were seizing up. It took us an hour and 45 to get to the top. The views were spectacular. It was very cold up the top of the mountain and very windy that day so the cable car was not running. This in turn meant the café wasn’t open. We were desperate for a hot drink but instead had a few mins getting our breath and headed back down. Looking down onto Cape Town was stunning. The sun was shining on the sea but up in the mountain we were level with big grey clouds. It was not as tiring going down but you had to keep on your toes as the steps were steep and there were a few loose rocks. The sun started to blaze and we came across a waterfall flowing out over the path along the side of the mountain. It was very pretty. We got to the bottom and cheered. We got a cab back into Cape Town and went to Granny Feels Good (a brilliant café) for coffee and bagel. I am so glad I walked up and down the mountain. It was very invigorating and worth the pain. I knew my legs would aches for days!
24th May - checking out more of Cape Town
Today I had a list of stuff I wanted to go and look at. I walked into the centre of Cape Town which took about 45 mins from the hostel. First off I went to the Gold Musuem which detailed the last 4000 history of Africas gold. It was amazing how rich and plentiful Africa was in pre-colonial times and how places like the Ghana Kingdom and Zimbabwe were very powerful. Next I went to Monkey Biz. A shop selling little beaded items made by women with HIV. Monkey Biz was setup to give HIV affected women an opportunity to be creative and earn money. I then walked up and down Long St which is a buzzing place full of unusual shops. There is a massive bead shop selling all shapes and sizes of beads. Also a second hand clothes shop. This was a gorgeous place. They had all 40’s and 50’s style prom dresses and just some great old clothes and hats. Checking all this out took most of the day and needless to say I got abit lost so got a cab back to the hostel!
25th May - Simons Town, Boulders Beach, Cape of Good Hope, Cape Point
This was an organised trip with a very eager and over the top guide! First off we drove through a very quaint Simons Town and then we stopped off at Boulders Beach to look at the penguins. They were very cute. The weather was gorgeous today and made a nice change! Onwards to Cape of Good Hope. We had a little cycle and a walk and finally got to the Point in the late afternoon. It was a really nice day and the clear blue skies and the gorgeous blue sea made for some incredible views.
26th - 28th May - checking out more of Cape Town
We went to the cinema to see Tsotsi - an amazing film! Also went to the National Gallery and just generally went out for walks to see more of Cape Town.
29th May - leave my little family and fly to Port Elizabeth. Visiting friends in St Francis Bay
Tears galore! I left to get my flight at around lunchtime. It was only myself, Bram and Nat and Bren left. Everyone else had left gradually throughout the week so it was a fairly emotional time. I flew to Port Elizabeth to visit my friends parents and generally chill out and get back into reality mode.
I had a lovely time and the weather was gorgeous. We went to the Cape St Francis and Jeffreys Bay. Both beautiful white sandy beaches with crystal blue seas. The sea is extremely cold though as its on the Atlantic….I only dipped my toe!
3rd June - PE to Joburg / Joburg to London
So that was that. Before I know it I am on my way back to PE airport to get a flight to Joburg. This got in at 3pm and then I had to wait until 9pm for my flight to London. It wasn’t that bad as the shops kept my amused and then it was time to leave Africa! I watched my last sunset from the terminal window and bid this beautiful continent farewell…..
4th June - HOME!
Need I say more……
A little bit more…..
I went on this trip to get away from routine, quiet all the noise, clear my head and have time to stop and look. I wanted to meet new people, see different cultures, different landscapes and just try to expand my world. I got so much more.
I have met some amazing people both on and off the truck. I have experienced a barrage of emotions from both personal and external struggles. The awesome landscapes. The poverty and desperation seen on the faces of the people through much of Africa. I tried to absorb everything I could and listen and learn along the way.
I loved travelling in a truck through Africa at a grassroots level. You could not ask for a better bunch people to travel with. Obviously I had a deeper bond with some more than others but all of us got along - most of the time :-). Nat and Bren committed themselves to the trip even though our first truck was not up to the job. They are both very patient, adaptable and tolerant with big hearts. They were a wealth of knowledge and great guides through Africa.
I loved being swallowed up by the huge open spaces that make you feel like a speck in space. Just a dot on a mountain, in a river, on a sand dune, in the desert. I loved the simplicity this journey has brought with it for me. The time I have spent close to nature and out in the elements is very precious. Looking to see what is around you at every opportunity. The land, the people, the animals…..everything was new and different every single day.
I did not write much about the people I have seen and met throughout Africa but this does not mean I have not spoken, watched and listened to the people of Africa. The majority of countries are poor, with most facing corruption with money going to the wrong people. You know that everyone is fighting for everything they eat, drink and earn and obviously this brings crime and hatred. The white person is viewed as rich and nearly every country would bring with it ‘Give me money’ from at least one person. Just like anywhere else in the world you would get lazy people who would want it all on a plate and you would get people that worked so hard it was unbelievable. The people of Africa are physically strong people and when you see them working in the fields or doing manual labour you see just how strong and determined they are. As you get further south there is abit more money but there is still a big divide between the black and white way of life and living conditions.
You had to barter for everything in west Africa (and alot in the east too). First price....best price....last price! It was sometimes very tiring and other times would just became a joke as the local market traders would start at a price 10 times higher than that for a local. You would laugh and joke about the white man price but definitely barter that down! Another overwhelming commonality was being asked for your phone number and email. I gave my email out over 20 times and have not received one yet. It seems it is just to have, like an autopilot question to ask of a foreigner....
All African women carry things on their heads. It was very bizarre to see a woman in a built up modern(ish) city like Nairobi to be carrying a bag on her head. Women also still carry their babies using a piece of cloth tied around their back and fastened over their breasts. Nothing has changed for hundreds of years.
The local people will walk for miles for work, food, water. Some of the long stretches of road we would see people walking. You could not see where they started or where they would end.
I have experienced the most wonderful hospitality from different people in different countries. Some people just want you to see their beautiful country and just want to talk about how they feel about what is happening in their country. When you hear all the different stories through Africa, the continent just seems like it has been left behind and where do you start with solving the problems.
A city like Lagos has disgusting smelly open sewers with people living next to them under bridges when it has the potential to be the richest country in Africa. The effect of the missionaries bringing with them strong religious beliefs are obvious on the road to Accra in Ghana - either 'The Lord is Great Electricals' or for those who went in a different direction - 'Allah forever beauty salon'. Extremely humourous when you get to the 100th store saying exactly the same. We saw a huge extravagant looking church being built in Uganda when alot of people have no money to eat. This then leads to two trains of thought as the church will hopefully bring together the community and give people a place of quiet and refuge but also the Ugandans are poor and could use that money to survive. I guess the same thing could be said in many of the other African countries.
The majority of Africans I met were happy. Even though they struggle on a day to day basis, family is very important to them. We always came across amazingly inquisitive and excitable kids that just wanted to talk and touch. You can see the toil in lots of faces. I wanted to reach out to everyone but unfortunately I cant.
I realise how lucky I am to have choices, access to work, access to basic things like food and water. To be free to express myself and have an opinion. It brings home the film Tsotsi line of ‘You don’t choose your beginnings’. Some are tough and some have no regard for human life. Others are desperate for knowledge and education to make their lives better, without war and killing.
I will go back to Africa and I would like to help somehow, even though my contribution would be small in comparison to the bigger picture.
In 7 months I have only seen a fraction of the continent (and I know mostly highlights) and what I am writing is all very basic. I am being very general about the whole continent but really you cannot lump together all the people in all the countries. I am just writing about my observations without much background or detailed knowledge about Africa.
I love Africa and feel passion for it. Whether its because it is where human life supposedly began or maybe its just the feeling of being absorbed into the vast wild spaces. There is no room for ego in Africa, you are inconsequential and just get lost in the crowd…..
A couple of poems I wrote - inspired by Africa.....
Do you remember?
Do you remember how I first struggled with your unpredictability?
How you smothered me with your burning hands.
Do you remember how you blew the hair off my face with your dry coarse breath?
Do remember the night you showed me the life in the sky?
Do you remember how you carried me across the vast expanse of desert?
How our romantic moments gave me hope,
but at the same time made me sad?
Do you remember how you made me question everything?
How you showed me colours and shapes as if for the first time.
Do you remember how much you deeply affected me?
How intensely I fell for you?
How you broke my heart?
Africa?
Do you remember?
Brothers and sisters
I'll never meet all my sisters and brothers,
Only the ones crossing my path.
Sometimes we will speak,
Sometimes we'll just pass.
The drum
The beat.
Its instinctive,
Primitive.
Another voice,
Another sense.
Hands slapping.
Sliding.
Closed.
Open.
Quicker, quicker...
Louder, louder...
Surrendering to the sound,
The movement,
The emotion,
Uninhibited.
Eyes shut.
Legs clasped tight.
The vibration passing through,
Your thighs,
Your calfs,
Your whole body.
Africa
I'll never forget the time you punched me hard in the stomach,
Making me feel weak and alone.
How you separated me from my friends,
Laughing at me like a tormentor.
You saved me from some people,
And pushed me into the arms of others.
Viciously jabbing me in the back,
To look at the reality around me.
You made me sad,
When you forced me to look into the eyes of hungry bellies.
I love to hate you Africa.
As I remember you kindly sat me down and tried to make me understand.
You made me feel insecure and assertive,
All at once.
You put on an amazing star show for me.
You made me embrace my emotions,
And laugh out loud.
I found a new strength through you,
As you provided the simplicity I craved.
The precious times we spent together at sunset.
You stirred me up.
You tried to make me recognise myself.
Become more accepting.
I am trying to meet you half way,
As our time is coming to an end.
I am replaying our journey in my head.
You are special to me,
And I want to remember.
Every single moment.
Sorry I didnt catch your name....
What is your name?
So many faces.
Walking.
Running.
Pounding washing.
Shouting.
Sorry I didnt catch your name...
Laughing.
Bargaining.
Drinking.
Dancing.
Drumming.
Pushing.
Shoving.
Desperate.
I still didnt catch your name...
Smiling.
Swaggering.
Balancing.
Flirting.
Gesturing.
Tugging.
Staring.
So many people..
So many faces..
I am sorry, I never caught your name...
The end
Sometimes I want to step back into yesterday.
For yesterday to be today.
Change nothing,
Just replay it all,
Before I have to fall into tomorrow.
Thank you for reading X